Adjustable Rear Toe for the Cheap-Ass

Crude tape measurements confirm that the reason my car is so squirrely is bad rear alignment. But this is not adjustable on the old Z car. At least not without an infusion of cash. So, here is my solution:

The original concept drawing (from almost a year ago!)
adjustable crossbar schematic

I decided not to use the R180 straight bar. Terry Oxandale used his, but it just seemed too close to the diff cover. Plus, it's thinner metal than the R200 unit.
parts 1
parts 2 parts 3
uprights The turnbuckle is made from a special piece of doubly threaded tubing purchased from Coleman racing parts and a pair of 5/8" heim joints purchased from Summit.
mockup1
I spot welded the piece of 1/4" metal while the uprights were still bolted to the car. This meant disconnecting the ECU and battery, wh ich means redoing the idle learn, but it was worth it to make sure it had a good chance of bolting back in place.
mockup2 weld it up
welding weld more
not done yet almost
Finished Completed
Looks done
It is still not done yet.
I decided to try and adjust things to some kind of approximate correctness. But I still have over a degree of Toe In with the crossbar shortened all the way. There are about 3 more threads of adjustment, but the arches on the crossbar hit the arches on the uprights. Plus it is out of square - the wheels are turning left by about 1 degree.

SO, I have to take the thing off and try to grind away. not much room to grind the arches on the uprights since the ovalled holes are really close to the edges already.
Update: My toe misalignment is so bad tha the adjuster cannot adjust enough. My pass. side spindle bore must be off by quite a bit. So, I cut the rear leg of the right side control arm. I then flanged it, clamped it horizontally to squeeze it and effectively shortened that leg. This pulled the spindle in a bit to correct the misalignment. I was then able to adjust the toe to zero. This was verified by the alignment shop.